1/16/2007

A whole new year for travel


By Joy Crutchfield
Special to the News-Capital

What will be the hottest spots for travel in 2007? Where’s the best nightlife? Where can I take Mom and Dad, me and my husband, our kids and grandchildren? Where can I go to get away from the crowds? What’s the best value? Is it better to book early or wait for a last minute sale? What are the new passport regulations?

The hottest spots for travel this year, according to the experts, are Hawaii and Mexico.

Hawaii for two reasons:
1) no passport necessary, and 2) Waikiki has great values which compare favorably to other budget-moderate vacations.

When you’re talking travel, Mexico is huge. Puerto Vallarta is going to be even bigger this year due to the new charter out of Oklahoma City beginning in May, and Nuevo Vallarta (nine miles of beach with new resorts for every budget).

Cancun has re-invented itself since the hurricanes and has added “luxury” destination to its definition. There are many new four- and five-star luxury properties and some are adults only. Palace resorts will be re-opening the Sun and Cancun Palace (within days), and have built the brand new Le Blanc resort (adults only, luxury). Of course for nightlife, Cancun is still the place to go. Los Cabos will place a close second.

The Riviera Maya has developed into a highly desired destination and for diving Cozumel is still the closest and the best.European River Cruises are in very high demand. They offer many different itineraries and you experience a variety of destinations while unpacking once and traveling elegantly.

Cruises are still very favorable for multi-generational travel. Every age group will be indulged and pampered, while visiting a variety of interesting ports. And the price can be budget to luxury. Cruises offer something for everyone.

There are many resorts within a short flight of our area which offer seclusion and rejuvenation. In fact, baby-boomers will be pleased to find many resorts now catering to our need to escape from our fast paced lives. Gourmet restaurants with healthy menus, spa treatments, exercise programs. They want us to live longer, healthier lives and return to spend our travel dollars again.

Value is based on your own expectations. With the room shortages of the past two years (due to the tsunami, hurricanes, etc), the days of the $199 Cancun deal are gone (unless you really want to stay in a hell hole). Having said that, construction is booming in many hot spots and we should see a stabilization of pricing for the next few years.

It is always better to book early. Due to natural disasters there simply have not been many “good” last minute deals. And most major vendors (Worry-Free and Funjet) now offer low-price guarantees. If you wait until the last minute and demand is high, you can pay thousands more for your trip. And spring break is never on sale — book it now.

Beginning Jan. 23 all air travelers entering or returning to the United States from Canada, Mexico, Bermuda, points in the Caribbean or anywhere else in the Western Hemisphere must present passports. The exceptions are U.S. citizens returning from Puerto Rico or the U.S. Virgin Islands, both U.S. Territories.

Travelers returning via cruise ship or by land have been given until June 2009, although there is talk of moving it up to Jan 1, 2008. And what if you are on a cruise, have a family emergency, and have to fly home?

Go to www.travel.state.gov/passport_services.html and download the application. It costs an adult $97 and is good for 10 years, and $82 for a child 15 and younger, good for five years. A new mega center for processing passports will be opening in Arkansas this spring. Right now the government is officially saying it takes six to eight weeks turn around time.There are so many wonderful places to experience in 2007, and our area is fortunate to have several airports within a close drive. Get starting planning your 2007 dream vacation today.

REAL ESTATE TRENDS 2006-2007

The primary trend for the Vallarta real estate market over the past three years has been strong, continual growth that has been difficult for developers, realtors or buyers to keep up with.

It has been difficult for developers, realtors or buyers to keep up with. It seems that as fast as real estate can be put on the market it is sold, whether it’s new or resale product. Demand continues to far exceed supply for nearly all home types and regions. This demand has fueled development and construction up and down the coastline. And a very strong trend from last year continues: projects are selling a significant portion of their inventory during pre-construction.

New development is now such a major part of the market that it has made it increasingly difficult to establish exactly what the value of the overall market place is. Statistical information is available from the local MLS; however, its sales now are estimated to encompass only 15% of the entire market. Over the past four years, the number of properties in the MLS has failed to increase (and would actually have decreased) if it weren’t for the large number of development properties coming online. This new product, however, is not part of the MLS and is currently not being tracked by any association or agency. The only way to know what is actually happening is by talking with developers individually to get an idea of what their sales have been and adding that to MLS sales. Doing so earlier this year for the Puerto Vallarta Real Estate Conference showed that overall sales for the Vallarta region, or Banderas Bay, seem to be close to $550 million USD for 2005, up from nearly $400 million USD in 2004.

What really shows how the marketplace is performing is that the first three top real estate offices we visited in May all stated that they had already surpassed their total sales volume for 2005, and they all had considered 2005 to be an exceptional year. And they did that will less sales, meaning the average sales prices had increased significantly.

Why the strong demand for Vallarta real estate?There are many reasons for the strong demand, but here’s an interesting one, expressed by Silvia Elias of PV Realty: For what a person pays in property taxes alone in California, you can pay the property taxes and nearly all the operating expenses of the home in Vallarta!

We keep referring back to 9/11 as a pivotal point for our market. It was a wake-up call for many who, up to that point, had been working very hard. The shock of this event made many decide that they need to get out and enjoy life more, and having a second home in a warm place seems to fit well. It would also be interesting to check whether there was any increase in the number of children born to affluent couples in there 30s and 40s. There sure seem to be a lot of children under the age of five at the beach club out at Punta Mita!

The Mexican economy continues to do well. The budget deficit has been reduced each of the past five years, and they project a balanced budget for this year with inflation below 4%. Economic growth is strong, and the peso has held its own against the US dollar.

And lastly, the drive has been taken out of the real estate market to the north in many markets, so investors are looking elsewhere. Mexican real estate in resort destinations is proving to be their new investment grounds.

Trends

More Affluent BuyerMany realtors have reported that their typical buyer profile is looking for a home investment higher than in previous years, regardless of what pricing may be at. A few years ago, the regular buyer profile was looking for a home/condo around $350,000 USD. Today, it’s more like $500,000 USD, driven up first by a buyer who can afford more and, secondly, by increasing prices.

Enter “The Player” - The Serious Real Estate Investor

A few years ago, a serious real estate investor told Wayne Franklin of Tropicasa Realty that in order to have a serious real estate market you first have to double your prices, and then double your prices again. When the prices get that high because of demand, you start attracting a different type of buyer, a more affluent buyer who doesn’t need financing and is used to paying high prices for their second or third homes. In Franklin’s estimation, we have just passed the first double and are certainly now attracting a more affluent buyer. Along with these buyers, we are also attracting serious investors and developers. Real estate developers from primary markets in the USA, such as Phoenix, Las Vegas, southern California and Miami, are now seriously looking for real estate opportunities in Vallarta. From Miami, Related Group, the largest Latino developers in the United States and responsible for much of the Miami skyline, has announced they will be developing in Vallarta shortly. As mentioned earlier, these people arrive having done their homework; they know what they want and they know how to develop.

This is creating a much more sophisticated real estate marketplace for Vallarta, which has for many years been built by small-time developers. And on a national level, Vallarta is now attracting Mexico City developers who previously have built in Acapulco for the Federal District community. Acapulco’s market is now considered overbuilt and just not as attractive a destination as it has been in years past.

A common phrase expressed by realtors is that Puerto Vallarta is now “on the map” as far a serious real estate investment globally. It is attracting investors from around the world who want to participate in the strong growth and potential of the marketplace.

Buyers are Younger

Although the Baby Boomer continues to drive the market, for the first time we heard realtors talking about the entry of “Generation X” buyers. A number of these buyers are kids of parents who already own here and are now getting places of their own. They grew up in Vallarta on vacations and are very familiar with the destination, the language and the culture. But they are also demanding. They are knowledgeable about the marketplace and want not just a home but a good investment. The property needs to make sense economically, whether that’s through continued appreciation or rental income.

Financing: Still a Small Player in the Overall Market

Most realtors reported that financing is here but is not yet making a big impression on the market, for a number of reasons. One is that the process has still not been refined, so it can take a long time to put together. Meanwhile, both the buyer and the seller can become very impatient. Mortgage brokers, in most cases, are still rather green to the process and haven’t yet had time to set up efficient procedures. Obtaining appraisals quickly is difficult, and some realtors mentioned mortgage companies coming back numerous times for more documentation, which they could have or should have asked for in the first place. It was also mentioned that the market has been flooded with numerous mortgage brokers trying to establish themselves, and not all have proven to be of the caliber that realtors would like or expect. It’s assumed that, as the financial market matures, the more professional brokers will persevere and so will market efficiencies. Secondly, Vallarta is now attracting more affluent buyers, who often can afford the home they want without having to look for financing.

Gringo Gulch/El Cerro is Trendy

The downtown area is hot and trendy. People are buying up older homes to renovate or whatever lots are still available to build. With traffic congestion getting worse for Vallarta, the downtown area has the advantage that you can park your car at home and walk to many restaurants and shops. Part of this interest has been driven by people who have been staying at Vallarta’s only downtown boutique hotel, Hacienda San Angel. People stay there and like the location, so they look for a home nearby.

South Shore Niche Market

There are fewer and fewer good building lots available in Las Amapas and Conchas Chinas, as most have been picked up by developers for small condominium projects. The steep terrain and lack of large building sites have held back larger condominium developers, adding to the uniqueness of this area. The real estate that is available tends to be single-family homes or condominium projects with less than 50 units. Prices have appreciated substantially here, with average condominium prices nearing $500,000 USD.

Price Appreciation Continues

Demand for High-End Condominiums

Condominiums are definitely becoming stylish and high end, sought after by an increasingly larger portion of buyers. They want the luxuries and space that usually come only with a home, but they enjoy being able to just lock up their home and leave. This is driving up demand and prices. The first condo sale over $1 million was just a couple of years ago and, just like when the four-minute mile was broken, now everyone’s doing it. Million-dollar condos are becoming more common, with the $2 million barrier broken as well for a condominium this year. Three-bedroom condos with more than 3,000 square feet of living area (larger than many average homes) continue to gain in popularity. And not just in one region, but throughout the bay. Condos at Punta Mita basically start a $1 million USD.

A project in Conchas Chinas, which involved demolishing an older oceanfront home and building six condominiums, saw the first initial sales go for $1.5 and $2.5 million USD. This price, which works out to nearly $500 per square foot, also reflects recent sales prices for similar properties on the north shore of the bay. In Amapas, which has been the condo-king area for a few years and is experiencing incredible development, condos that were selling last year for $300,000 USD on average have been pushed up to $450,000, with listing pricing reaching as high as $1.5 million. Condos are still available for as low as $300,000, but this is becoming increasingly rare.

Price-Comparison Shopping

All realtors spoke about working with more sophisticated buyers, who ask intelligent questions and know ahead of time what they want. They also are comparing pricing, not just locally but also with other national markets, such San Miguel de Allende, Cancun and, most commonly, Los Cabos. With regard to Los Cabos, prices in many cases are double those of Vallarta. On a recent “check out the market” visit to Los Cabos with a few Vallarta realtors, we saw firsthand the difference in pricing. At one high-end development we toured, an ocean-view (overlooking three rows of homes), three-bedroom penthouse condominium with 3,400 square feet was priced at $2.5 million USD. Similar condominiums, but on the beach at a similar development (Punta Mita), recently were selling for around $1.5 million. That is a substantial difference.

Overwhelmingly, when asked what their buyers were choosing, realtors informed us that when they price compare to Cabo, PV wins nearly every time. And it’s not just because of price. Vallarta just has more real estate variety, a larger community with more services, and the added value of being on the mainland and more accessible to the rest of Mexico.

US Real Estate Bubble Slowdown

There has been a noticeable slowdown in many real estate markets in the USA, and concern for how this could effect our local market. For the most part, this is affecting first-time home buyers who are finding themselves unable to afford a home now in their marketplace, or first-time home buyers who have purchased, but now feel the pressure of increasing interest rates and, in some cases, decreasing home values. The second-home buyer, however, continues to be a strong market in the USA, as Baby Boomers continue to look for a second home for family or retirement use.

Vallarta’s market traditionally has been driven by the second- or even third-time home buyers; therefore, if there is a real estate bubble, it will most likely not be affected. This sentiment was shared by the majority of the realtors we talked to. Baby Boomers are continuing to retire, they are looking for second homes, and they have the money to make the purchase, in many situations, without financing.

One realtor expressed that their downturn has been our upturn. Serious investors, discouraged by high prices and overbuilding, have left US markets to look elsewhere. And they aren’t looking just in Mexico; places such as Costa Rica, Belize and Honduras were also mentioned as places they are looking to invest.

Vallarta’s market continues to be primarily a “cash” market, with financing still playing a very minor role. Having people pay cash and not finance means they own their homes outright, which further insulates us against any people “flipping” by putting very little down, hoping to sell for more down the line. Having to pay cash limits this type of activity.

Price Appreciation

Appreciation has been a strong trend for the past three years and quite consistent over the past 15. We are still below competitive markets like Hawaii and Los Cabos, so this trend should continue, especially for beachfront properties. The MLS shows that condominiums have appreciated by 14% and homes by 11% annually since 1999.

Local Business People Investing

The increase in real estate development has brought a surge of cash into the community. Local business owners who are part of the service industry are finding themselves with extra cash and, not wanting to miss out on what’s happening in the real estate market, are building homes themselves in partnership with local contractors. This is most noticeable in Fluvial Vallarta, a large residential/commercial development located in front of the Holiday Inn and behind the Plaza Caracol shopping center, which has seen very strong growth since it began sales last year.

Conclusion

Vallarta’s real estate market is very active, and all signs seem to indicate that this level of activity will continue. Prices are still lower than competing markets; buyers are buying as quickly as product comes on the market, so there’s no oversupply; and the second-home market continues to be one of the most active markets in America.

“Vallarta Lifestyles” would like to thank the following realtors for their participation with this article: Silvia Elias and David Pullen of PV Realty, Wayne Franklin of Tropicasa Realty, Carl Timothy of Timothy/Fuller y Asociados, Brock Squire of Punta Mita Properties and Sherri Narro of Sherri Narro & Associates.

Mexican village of Bucerias is a diamond in the rough

Sheryl Salloum, Special to the Sun
Published: Saturday, January 13, 2007

Our hectic schedule allowed for only a 10-day getaway. We wanted to avoid tourist-jammed resorts, and we did not want to rough it. Our travel agent recommended Bucerias, Mexico, as a safe, tranquil sojourn. Not expecting much in the way of entertainment in a small town, and not being a sun tanner, I packed a thick novel and hoped for the best.

As it turned out, Bucerias is a charming place with numerous arts, cultural, and outdoor activities.

The village is about 30 kilometers north of Puerto Vallarta. The 15-minute taxi drive from the airport took us along a lackluster freeway.

But when we turned off and bumped along the uneven cobbled streets, we discovered what one part-time resident describes as "a mix of the modern and the primitive." Large, attractive villas with lush vegetation and brilliantly coloured bougainvillea spilling over high fences sit next to ramshackle structures in overgrown yards.

Dogs laze, outstretched on the dusty roads. Bananas ready for plucking hang from small palms growing beside the sidewalks. Huichol Indians in traditional attire stroll through town, selling their wares. A magnificent, sandy beach runs parallel to Bucerias and stretches for kilometres both north and south of the community.

Our small house, booked with Las Palmas Vacations, was luxurious, with a private patio, air-conditioning, wireless high-speed Internet service, Cable TV and a telephone. We also had maid service, vases of freshly-cut tropical flowers, and a magnificent pool in which sat numerous, large coconut palms. Geckos scuttled across the walls and the occasional iguana eyed us.

Besides swimming in the pool or the warm waters of the Bay of Banderas, we found that Bucerias is an epicurean's delight. At The Cochina de Jorge, which is little more than some tables in a back yard, we had tasty huevos rancheros; at the second-storey Red Apple we watched breathtaking sunsets; dining at Los Helechos, the hummingbirds flitted about while Jesus, the proprietor, served us samples of his deliciously smooth amber-coloured tequila; and at Karen's we dined on the beach. There are numerous other fantastic restaurants, such as the renowned Mark's Bar & Grill, and no matter where we ate, we feasted on seafood and thirst-quenching beer.

Near the zocalo (plaza) we shopped at little stalls selling leather, pottery, jewelry, woven baskets and other crafts. Every Saturday night the locals swim and then gather in the zocalo to eat from small, impromptu stands, drink beer, listen to music, and visit. As tourists we were welcomed and, like everyone else, enjoyed the festive atmosphere. Sunday mornings a market is held above the busy highway. There we bought juicy pineapples for one dollar each, and bags of fresh produce and seafood.

There are also several pastelerias, such as Pie in the Sky and Pandeleria, selling mouth-watering desserts and freshly baked breads. At the Coffee Cup we satisfied our cravings for lattes and cappuccinos. The rest of the time we brewed delicious full-bodied organic Mexican coffee at our casa.

We were delighted to find many intriguing galleries and talented artists. Our favourite is The Galeria del Sol, run by a retired teacher from Chetwynd. Calum Cameron's vividly coloured canvases of Bucerias sell worldwide. Others include A Broken Art Mosaic Studio, which features unique articles made with tiles or broken glass that can be purchased ready-made or crafted (in classes) by visitors like ourselves.

Uniquely designed silver jewelry can be found at Isabel's and In Latino. The Cotton Shop sells handwoven bed and kitchen items that are created while you watch.

For the more adventurous, there are ATV and dune buggy tours, fishing, sailing trips, snorkelling and scuba diving, horseback rides along the ocean or into the mountains, dolphin and whale watching, tree-top rides over river or jungle canopies, and parasailing.

After 10 days of playing in the surf, watching pelicans diving for fish, listening to exotic bird calls, eating gourmet meals, conversing with friendly Mexicans and other tourists, and exploring the culture of this rustic yet contemporary village, we were sad to leave. Back in the gloom of a Canadian winter, I am now reading my novel -- but all my reveries are of Bucerias and my next vacation in that "sleepy little town."

Sheryl Salloum is a Vancouver writer.

Latin America Real Estate: Continued Growth

Monday, January 15, 2007

Latin America Real Estate: Continued Growth

US baby boomers and European investors are helping spur the market. But growth and prices are slowing down.

BY CHRONICLE STAFF

Despite growing political tension in some countries, the real estate sector in Latin America continues to see strong growth.

"The fundamentals of the region continue to be sound, despite some concern on the potential collateral effect of the slowdown in the U.S. real estate market in other regions of the globe," says Rogerio Basso, an analyst at Ernst & Young's real estate advisory services. "The baby boomer generation will continue to retire in large numbers in the next coming years and they will have a substantial amount of disposable income available to them. Many of these individuals are looking for opportunities to purchase second homes that they can use either for vacation or retirement purposes, and as such Latin America will continue to be an attractive proposition."

Apart from the real estate brokers, title insurance companies like First American are also seeing strong growth. "We issued more than twice as many title insurance policies in 2006 compared to 2005 and the insured amount tripled in value," says Turalu Brady Murdock, vice president at U.S.-based First American Title Insurance Company.

BETTER THAN U.S.

Basso expects a reduced rate of appreciation in second-home prices in the year ahead relative to 2006, but it should still be superior to the United States, thereby attracting baby boomers wishing to make investments in second homes in Latin America. "Though we should also anticipate a slow down in sales pace, this will be short lived, and will mostly impact the upper-end of the market," he says.

In general, there will continue to be a high level of interest for highly-amenitized, branded, beach-front developments, according to Basso.

Mexico and Costa Rica are expected to be the main drivers behind the growth, due to its proximity to the United States, Basso says. "Given that a substantial amount of demand in the second-home market is driven by US buyers, there should be continued interest in coastal locations within proximity to the US," he says. "Mexico and Costa Rica should continue to be in the real estate forefront, along with other markets in the Caribbean such as Bahamas and the Turks and Caicos. South America has yet to explode as a vibrant real estate market as a result of its distance to the main source market, the US." Mexico is the top Latin American market for First American, according to Murdock.

PANAMA AND NICARAGUA

In Central America, Panama, Guatemala and Nicaragua are seeing increased real estate activity, Basso points out. "However, the volumes are still relatively small to make them significant players in the region," he says. Nicaragua and Panama are the two fastest-growing markets in Latin America outside of Mexico for First American.

In the Caribbean, the Dominican Republic is developing several projects that are anchored by upscale lodging brands (Westin Rokoki and Cap Cana), and is a place to watch, according to Basso. The northeast coast of Brazil (Bahia, Pernambuco), which features some of the most beautiful beaches in South America, has seen an increased level of interest from Spanish and Portuguese developers to develop mixed-use projects, mainly focusing on a European-based buyer.Murdock expects Brazil, along with Nicaragua and Panama, to account for her company's strongest growth in the region this year.

Destinations that do not offer convenient access to the United States, both in terms of availability of flights and flight length, will not expand their secondary real estate markets, he warns. Countries that already lack a vibrant second home market to begin with - for example Ecuador and Bolivia - will be affected by the slowdown in the United States and increasing competition elsewhere, he adds.

DECREASED PRICE AND SALES GROWTH

Overall, he doesn't expect any declines in the top markets, but a decrease in appreciation rate and sales pace. "Given the significant appreciation in land prices in the past three years, profit margins are reducing," Basso says. "Buying land now is significantly more expensive than before...As such, the same project that made sense five years ago may not pencil out today."

Meanwhile, the development quality is also changing. "Developers are being forced to offer highly-amenitized branded projects to differentiate themselves from the competition," Basso says. "Although there are significant benefits to this strategy (marketing, quality of finishes, awareness, etc) it also increases development costs. Projects that do not feature these characteristics will be at a disadvantage."

Real Estate: Mexico Mortgages Spur Boom

Mortgage securitization has helped spur a boom in real estate in Mexico.

BY RONALD BUCHANAN

MEXICO CITY — It may lack the frenetic activity of Panama or the bargain-basement prices of Argentina, but the Mexican real-estate market is growing as never before on the basis of the nation's new-found economic stability.

The growth is evident in all areas: commercial, industrial, vacation and retirement properties, and upscale housing, but nowhere more than in low-cost homes. Hillsides on the roads leading out of the working-class north and east of Mexico's huge capital are peppered with housing developments. Though reminiscent of Pete Seeger's "little boxes", there ends all resemblance with those of the song. Seeger's little boxes were inhabited by people who played golf and drank Martinis; those who live in the new postage-stamped sized Mexican houses are former residents of hardscrabble barrios who often face two-hour journeys on public transport to reach jobs in the city center where some earn as little as $4,000 a year.

They are beneficiaries of a silent revolution in Mexico's capital markets — "like electricity, you can't see it, but the lights sure go on," as one banker said — that led to the construction of more than 3 million low-income homes during the six-year presidency of Vicente Fox that ended last December. Fox failed in achieving all the headline-grabbing reforms, in energy, labor and taxes, for which international investors were clamoring, but he turned the drought in mortgage-lending that followed the nation's 1994-95 economic collapse into a near flood.

A key has been the securitization of mortgages, a development launched by specialist lender Su Casita; high growth rates have attracted international banks to structure the bonds, and last year Su Casita's portfolio grew to almost $700 million. Infonavit, the government housing agency, has joined in, but there is still plenty of room for growth: mortgage-backed securities still account for only about 0.2 percent of GDP, compared with some 10 percent in developed economies.

The growth achieved by Fox has inspired his successor, Felipe Calderón, to aim for the construction of 1 million homes a year during his six-year presidency — a goal that market analysts say is well within reach and will mark a huge step forward for a country where the housing deficit is reckoned at 400,000 homes a year.

Mexico's foreign-owned banks are pitching in. BBVA Bancomer, the local unit of the Spanish-owned bank, aims to make $6.4 billion in mortgages and house construction loans this year, up from just under $5 billion in 2006. "We want to finance the construction of 110,000 homes this year," Eduardo Osuna, the bank's mortgage banking director, said last week.

Part of that $6.4 billion will be lent by banks acquired by BBVA Bancomer in Texas and California in recent years. The recipients will be Mexicans who live and work in the US, as well as the growing generation of US "baby boomers" seeking second or retirement homes — a sector that is attracting lenders on both sides of the border.

Donald Trump's $200 million Trump Ocean Resort Baja Mexico has highlighted a slew of US-financed developments in areas such as Baja California and Puerto Peñasco, Sonora (better known to Arizonans as "Rocky Point").

But Spanish developers are active too, particularly on the Riviera Maya, around Cancun. Indeed, buoyed by the strength of the euro, Spain outstripped the United States in investment in resort areas last year, according to the government tourism agency, Fonatur. And some of it landed up in places off the beaten tourist trail, such as the southeastern state of Campeche.
The Campeche Playa Golf, Marina and Spa Resort will feature a Greg Norman-designed golf course and apartments beginning at $230,000. Spanish developer Grupo Mall is in talks with European banks with the aim of securing euro-denominated as well as dollar mortgages for the project.

Meanwhile, activity in commercial and industrial real estate is picking up fast as investors cash in on depressed prices that followed a glut caused by a building boom. By some accounts, "triple A" office space in the Santa Fe suburb to the west of Mexico City — beset by transport problems — is being let for as little as $15 per square meter a month, though rates in more central locations range from $21 to $27.

But, while optimism remains high following Mexico's longest period of financial stability of modern times, the horizon is not without a few storm clouds, not least the price of oil, on which the nation's government relies for more than a third of its income.

Gems lie off beaten path

10 Mexican destinations that are worth the trip

Sat Jan 13 2007
By David Agren
Canadians love jetting south to Mexico, but sadly, many stick to their all-inclusive resorts and thus miss the country's best gems. Here are 10 places worth putting down your margarita to discover.

1. Colima: A charming state capital located less than 40 kilometres from an active volcano. Comala is home to bars on the main square dubbed botaneros where patrons receive a plate of botanas (snacks) with each drink order and mariachis in garish costumes serenade the imbibers.

2. The Costa Alegre: A strip of Pacific Coast beach towns that offer amenities, low prices, nice beaches and tranquillity. (Costa Alegre means Happy Coast in Spanish.) It's a nice alternative to nearby grimy Manzanillo. The St. Patrick's week festivities in San Patricio-Melaque are one of a kind.

3. Mineral del Monte: A colonial town 100 kilometres northeast of Mexico City once populated by Cornish miners, who imported soccer, Cornish architecture and pasties, which are still served throughout the region. The headstones in the local Panteon de los Ingleses (English Cemetery) read like an English telephone directory.

4. Papantla: Indulge all things vanilla in the lush region of northern Veracruz where the fragrant flavouring agent originally came from. Be careful of buying fake vanilla, though. Jaw-dropping low prices indicate a lack of authenticity.

5. Parras de la Fuente: Founded in 1597, local landmark Casa Madero is the oldest winery in the Americas. Set in an oasis that's a five-hour drive from the Texas border, the town is a pleasant respite from the oppressive heat of Northern Mexico.

6. Patzcuaro: This unpretentious Michoacan town is the site of impressive Day of the Dead festivities each November -- especially on nearby Janitizo Island -- and a hotbed of indigenous Purepecha culture.

7. Puerto Escondido: Surfers have long descended on this once-remote Oaxaca beach town, which is famous for killer waves and a laidback vibe. Now popular with non-surfing European backpackers, since calmer beaches also dot the region.

8. Rio Nexpa: It's nothing more than a few beach-front palapas and cabanas just off the thinly travelled road from Ixtapa to Manzanillo. It's pure, isolated bliss and is popular in surfing circles.
9. Tequila: Yes! There is an actual town called Tequila. And yes! It's full of distilleries. While not exactly Napa -- which local boosters want it to become -- sipping tequila in the town the drink made famous is always fun. A boozy train ride dubbed the Tequila Express runs on Saturdays between Guadalajara and the Casa Herradura factory in neighbouring Amatitan.

10. Zacatecas: An ex-mining town full of modern art museums, remarkably preserved colonial architecture, a baroque cathedral made from pink sandstone and a luxury hotel set in the old bull ring. For entertainment after dark, dance the night away at a club inside the old Eden Mine or participate in a callejoneada (street party), which is usually led by a donkey laden with jugs of mezcal.

David Agren is a freelance journalist based in Guadalajara, Mexico. He's visited each of these destinations at least once over the past five years.

-- CanWest News Service