Mexican village of Bucerias is a diamond in the rough
Sheryl Salloum, Special to the Sun
Published: Saturday, January 13, 2007
Our hectic schedule allowed for only a 10-day getaway. We wanted to avoid tourist-jammed resorts, and we did not want to rough it. Our travel agent recommended Bucerias, Mexico, as a safe, tranquil sojourn. Not expecting much in the way of entertainment in a small town, and not being a sun tanner, I packed a thick novel and hoped for the best.
As it turned out, Bucerias is a charming place with numerous arts, cultural, and outdoor activities.
The village is about 30 kilometers north of Puerto Vallarta. The 15-minute taxi drive from the airport took us along a lackluster freeway.
But when we turned off and bumped along the uneven cobbled streets, we discovered what one part-time resident describes as "a mix of the modern and the primitive." Large, attractive villas with lush vegetation and brilliantly coloured bougainvillea spilling over high fences sit next to ramshackle structures in overgrown yards.
Dogs laze, outstretched on the dusty roads. Bananas ready for plucking hang from small palms growing beside the sidewalks. Huichol Indians in traditional attire stroll through town, selling their wares. A magnificent, sandy beach runs parallel to Bucerias and stretches for kilometres both north and south of the community.
Our small house, booked with Las Palmas Vacations, was luxurious, with a private patio, air-conditioning, wireless high-speed Internet service, Cable TV and a telephone. We also had maid service, vases of freshly-cut tropical flowers, and a magnificent pool in which sat numerous, large coconut palms. Geckos scuttled across the walls and the occasional iguana eyed us.
Besides swimming in the pool or the warm waters of the Bay of Banderas, we found that Bucerias is an epicurean's delight. At The Cochina de Jorge, which is little more than some tables in a back yard, we had tasty huevos rancheros; at the second-storey Red Apple we watched breathtaking sunsets; dining at Los Helechos, the hummingbirds flitted about while Jesus, the proprietor, served us samples of his deliciously smooth amber-coloured tequila; and at Karen's we dined on the beach. There are numerous other fantastic restaurants, such as the renowned Mark's Bar & Grill, and no matter where we ate, we feasted on seafood and thirst-quenching beer.
Near the zocalo (plaza) we shopped at little stalls selling leather, pottery, jewelry, woven baskets and other crafts. Every Saturday night the locals swim and then gather in the zocalo to eat from small, impromptu stands, drink beer, listen to music, and visit. As tourists we were welcomed and, like everyone else, enjoyed the festive atmosphere. Sunday mornings a market is held above the busy highway. There we bought juicy pineapples for one dollar each, and bags of fresh produce and seafood.
There are also several pastelerias, such as Pie in the Sky and Pandeleria, selling mouth-watering desserts and freshly baked breads. At the Coffee Cup we satisfied our cravings for lattes and cappuccinos. The rest of the time we brewed delicious full-bodied organic Mexican coffee at our casa.
We were delighted to find many intriguing galleries and talented artists. Our favourite is The Galeria del Sol, run by a retired teacher from Chetwynd. Calum Cameron's vividly coloured canvases of Bucerias sell worldwide. Others include A Broken Art Mosaic Studio, which features unique articles made with tiles or broken glass that can be purchased ready-made or crafted (in classes) by visitors like ourselves.
Uniquely designed silver jewelry can be found at Isabel's and In Latino. The Cotton Shop sells handwoven bed and kitchen items that are created while you watch.
For the more adventurous, there are ATV and dune buggy tours, fishing, sailing trips, snorkelling and scuba diving, horseback rides along the ocean or into the mountains, dolphin and whale watching, tree-top rides over river or jungle canopies, and parasailing.
After 10 days of playing in the surf, watching pelicans diving for fish, listening to exotic bird calls, eating gourmet meals, conversing with friendly Mexicans and other tourists, and exploring the culture of this rustic yet contemporary village, we were sad to leave. Back in the gloom of a Canadian winter, I am now reading my novel -- but all my reveries are of Bucerias and my next vacation in that "sleepy little town."
Sheryl Salloum is a Vancouver writer.
Published: Saturday, January 13, 2007
Our hectic schedule allowed for only a 10-day getaway. We wanted to avoid tourist-jammed resorts, and we did not want to rough it. Our travel agent recommended Bucerias, Mexico, as a safe, tranquil sojourn. Not expecting much in the way of entertainment in a small town, and not being a sun tanner, I packed a thick novel and hoped for the best.
As it turned out, Bucerias is a charming place with numerous arts, cultural, and outdoor activities.
The village is about 30 kilometers north of Puerto Vallarta. The 15-minute taxi drive from the airport took us along a lackluster freeway.
But when we turned off and bumped along the uneven cobbled streets, we discovered what one part-time resident describes as "a mix of the modern and the primitive." Large, attractive villas with lush vegetation and brilliantly coloured bougainvillea spilling over high fences sit next to ramshackle structures in overgrown yards.
Dogs laze, outstretched on the dusty roads. Bananas ready for plucking hang from small palms growing beside the sidewalks. Huichol Indians in traditional attire stroll through town, selling their wares. A magnificent, sandy beach runs parallel to Bucerias and stretches for kilometres both north and south of the community.
Our small house, booked with Las Palmas Vacations, was luxurious, with a private patio, air-conditioning, wireless high-speed Internet service, Cable TV and a telephone. We also had maid service, vases of freshly-cut tropical flowers, and a magnificent pool in which sat numerous, large coconut palms. Geckos scuttled across the walls and the occasional iguana eyed us.
Besides swimming in the pool or the warm waters of the Bay of Banderas, we found that Bucerias is an epicurean's delight. At The Cochina de Jorge, which is little more than some tables in a back yard, we had tasty huevos rancheros; at the second-storey Red Apple we watched breathtaking sunsets; dining at Los Helechos, the hummingbirds flitted about while Jesus, the proprietor, served us samples of his deliciously smooth amber-coloured tequila; and at Karen's we dined on the beach. There are numerous other fantastic restaurants, such as the renowned Mark's Bar & Grill, and no matter where we ate, we feasted on seafood and thirst-quenching beer.
Near the zocalo (plaza) we shopped at little stalls selling leather, pottery, jewelry, woven baskets and other crafts. Every Saturday night the locals swim and then gather in the zocalo to eat from small, impromptu stands, drink beer, listen to music, and visit. As tourists we were welcomed and, like everyone else, enjoyed the festive atmosphere. Sunday mornings a market is held above the busy highway. There we bought juicy pineapples for one dollar each, and bags of fresh produce and seafood.
There are also several pastelerias, such as Pie in the Sky and Pandeleria, selling mouth-watering desserts and freshly baked breads. At the Coffee Cup we satisfied our cravings for lattes and cappuccinos. The rest of the time we brewed delicious full-bodied organic Mexican coffee at our casa.
We were delighted to find many intriguing galleries and talented artists. Our favourite is The Galeria del Sol, run by a retired teacher from Chetwynd. Calum Cameron's vividly coloured canvases of Bucerias sell worldwide. Others include A Broken Art Mosaic Studio, which features unique articles made with tiles or broken glass that can be purchased ready-made or crafted (in classes) by visitors like ourselves.
Uniquely designed silver jewelry can be found at Isabel's and In Latino. The Cotton Shop sells handwoven bed and kitchen items that are created while you watch.
For the more adventurous, there are ATV and dune buggy tours, fishing, sailing trips, snorkelling and scuba diving, horseback rides along the ocean or into the mountains, dolphin and whale watching, tree-top rides over river or jungle canopies, and parasailing.
After 10 days of playing in the surf, watching pelicans diving for fish, listening to exotic bird calls, eating gourmet meals, conversing with friendly Mexicans and other tourists, and exploring the culture of this rustic yet contemporary village, we were sad to leave. Back in the gloom of a Canadian winter, I am now reading my novel -- but all my reveries are of Bucerias and my next vacation in that "sleepy little town."
Sheryl Salloum is a Vancouver writer.
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